English for 653 Puffed Ribbon Dolman-sleeve Top

Hello. Thank you for choosing to sew with Couleure's Japanese pattern. It's sometimes like saving a puzzle when sewing a foreign pattern. 

Here are the steps translated into English. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact hello[at.]bridgeword.com

 

Happy sewing! We'd love to hear how you enjoyed it. 

 

Yuriko Takahashi, designer & founder of Couleure Pattern & Fabric

 

 

 

How to sew 653 Puffed Ribbon Dolman-sleeve Tops

(Sleeve A)

 

*1*

Sew the hem and the front slit. Fold in threes and stitch with 0.7cm. 

Back piece(後ろ身頃) ... sew only the hem.

The front(前見頃)... sew from hem, then slit.

 

Make the back neck opening. The diagrams are the last two papers of your instruction. 

*Back neck Opening*(for both A & B)

1)Make the back opening at Step *1* Diagram is 「後バインー開き」

2)Make the loop shown on instructions 「ループ釦」Check how to make the loop according to your button size. 

3)Place the loop you made on the backside of the back piece. Pin it, fold the neckline and topstitch. Stitch a few times over to hold the loop in place. 

4) Put a button after *9*

 

 

*2*

Sew the neckline. 

Overlock the raw edge. Fold in two and stitch with 0.7cm. 

 

*3*

Sew the shoulder.

Overlock the raw edge, turn towards the back. 

縫い代押さえステッチ... after turning towards the back, stitch to hold in place. 

 

*4*

Sew the sides—overlock and turn towards the back. 

Thee seam allowance near the armhole tends to get creased. Don't sew all the way to the end, stop sewing at the finish line (出来上がり線)

 

*5*

Finish the back slit. 

Fold in three and stitch with 0.7cm.

 

*6* Sleeve A

Sew the sleeve top and bottom, inside out. 

Overlock the raw edges and turn towards the back.  

 

*7*

Sew undersleeves. 

Cuff ribbing is folded facing right side, sew then turn to the right side. 

Fold in half (Don't press it!)

 

*8*

Attach the ribbing to the sleeve. 

Overlock the raw edges, fold towards the sleeve. 

The ribbing needs to be gently pulled to fit the sleeve opening. Roughly 4cm. 

Remember to line the sleeve and the ribbing. (袖下の縫い目を合わせる)

 

*9*

Sew the armhole. 

Overlock and turn towards the sleeve. 

Sew twice under the armhole for durability. Do not mistake the front and the back ! 

 

How to sew Sleeve B. 

*1〜6* as above.

 

*7*

Overlock the sleeve opening as shown. Use anti-fray glue then make a clipping.

Fold in two and then hold stitch at 0.7cm.

 

Then sew two lines for gathering. (Rough, big stitches for easing) 

 

*8* Use pattern "B袖口リボン続きカフス" (two pieces in outer fabric.)

Make cuffs and attach. 

Fold the cuffs right-side together. Sew till the line marked as 袖付け止まり位置, leaving the gap in the middle. 

Turn to the right side. Look at the diagram that shows how to fold the corners neatly. 

 

Then, 

gather the sleeves, attach the cuffs as shown on the instructions. 

Turn the seam allowances towards the cuffs. It is difficult to sew to the 付け止まり位置 (the attaching point) but lift the seam allowance and try to sew till the end. 

 

After turning towards the cuffs, stitch to hold. 

Ideally understitching. If difficult topstitch. 

 

 

*Back neck Opening Detail*(for both A & B) 

 

「後バインダー開き」(back neck slash opening)

 

1)Cut the binding fabric on a bias. 

2)Cut the line on the back piece where the opening is.

3)Attach the back piece and binding piece. 

4)Wrap the opening with the binding piece, then topstitch.

Sew the corner in a triangle shape (see diagram) to hold in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

「ループ釦」(Loop for button)

 

1)Measure the button. Wrap a strip of paper around the button you want to use. Cut the paper.

2)Cut the loop fabric on bias. 

Length is (length of paper + ease + seam allowance 2cm)×number of button

* The ease here would depend on the thickness of the fabric.

3) Sew the loop facing inside. Leave the thread long for using to turn out.

4)Cut the seamallowance, and the corner in a triangle. 

5)Turn it inside out by using the remaining thread. 

*You can use a loop maker as seen on the diagram. 

 

You can see ideas of this pattern here on our Japanese website. https://www.couleure.jp/?pid=114310816

 Contact your favourite shop where you found this pattern if you would like to try other designs! 

How to add seam allowance Method 1 - 3

A pattern without seam allowance (s/a) allows you to be flexible when altering. You can trace and add s/a to your traced paper or use one of the below methods. There are several other ways…but here are two simple ways. 

Learn more: Why do you add seam allowance.

 

Method 1. Trace pattern on paper. Add seam allowance indicated on the paper pattern while checking the diagram for unique seam shapes.

 

Method 2.Trace seam allowance with tailor’s chalk or chalk pen on fabric.

 

Method 3. Use tailor’s tacks to mark the finish line (sewing line)

 


Method 2. Trace seam allowance with tailor’s chalk or chalk pen on fabric

 

  • Place a pattern that doesn’t have a s/a directly on the fabric.
  • You will transfer the s/a looking at the paper pattern, then sew using the stitch guide on your machine.
  • You do not transfer the finish line (sewing line) with this method. (You can if you would like to) 

 

1. Cut out the pattern at your size from the original or trace the pattern from the original.

 

2. Lay on the fabric. Place weights.

 

 

3. Draw the seam allowance directly on the fabric. The s/a width is written on your pattern. Ex. 1.0cm s/a means add 1.0cm seam allowance around the pattern. You do not need to draw the finish line unless you require this. Just remember how much s/a there is when sewing the finish line.

 

 

 

*Remember to trace all notches and marks!

 

 


 

Method 3. Use tailor’s tacks to mark the finish line (sewing line)

 

Mark the finish line(sewing line)  with a traditional tailor’s tacks. Then cut the necessary s/a while looking at the pattern. The s/a can be slightly larger than indicated on the pattern. This allows you to adjust sizing as you construct your garment.

 

1. Place the pattern directly on the fabric. The pattern has no s/a added. 

 

 

2. Use traditional tailor’s tacks to indicate the sewing lines. This is the finish line.

3. For corners, make a cross-like mark.

 

 

 

4. For round curves, make several tailor’s tacks. For straight lines, fewer. Remember all the notches! 

5. Once finished, cut seam allowance around the fabric. Check the pattern to see how much s/a you need and make it a little bigger than suggested. This allows space for adjustment! 

 

 

 

6. Gently pull apart the layers of fabric, trim the threads in between.

This will leave little threads in both sides. This is the line you will sew when composing.

 

 

 

 

 

Welcome: Why add seam allowance yourself ?

Thank you for choosing to sew with Couleure's Pattern.

 

Your Pattern will include the below:

1. Paper pattern / multi-size & in English

2. Detailed Instruction / in English

3. Seam allowance diagram / in Japanese

 

 

Couleure's "English & Multi-size" patterns do not include seam allowance. This is because Couleure's patterns have very precise seam allowance such as 1.2cm, 1.0cm, 1.5cm, 2.5cm etc compared to most patterns where they ask for 1.5cm or 2.0cm all around. This results in a clean-finish, well-fitted and professional-looking items.   

 

It is difficult to make a multi-size pattern that has a clear sewing line and a detailed seam allowance included. We believe having the correct sewing line is important. Therefore we ask our users to add these themselves while looking at the included 3. Seam allowance diagram. 

 

If you have had any experience with Japanese patterns you would know that most Japanese patterns do not include seam allowance. This is the case for Couleure's pattern's multi-size patterns too. It is said to come from a tradition of tailoring where patterns are adjusted and altered to individual body-shape and dress-style. 

 

When you are still new to sewing or familiar with a pattern that has a general seam allowance included it might feel like an extra step having to add seam allowance yourself. But once you are an experienced sewer it is useful to start with a pattern without seam allowance. You can clearly see the sewing line, you know where to adjust and where to leave as, before adding seam allowance. You can check and adjust your pattern without having to remove the seam allowance.

 

It might be a new technique for you but we hope you will enjoy the experience and the rewarding end-results. We hope Couleure's pattern will introduce you to a new world of skills. 

 

See Tutorial: How to add seam allowance